In a nutshell, I’m a strong advocate of shooting in RAW, and typically make this adjustment immediately after I get a new camera – it’s only one time adjustment, and I don’t have to worry about it, ever.
2. Set exposure compensation to zero
By default the camera sets it to zero, but if you changed it in your last shoot, and forget to change it back, you might end up over-exposed or under-exposed images for the entire shoot without knowing why. So check this setting before each photo shoot.
You can also set auto bracketing in this same menu if you are not sure what exposure compensation you should use to get the right exposure. Or you would like to create HDR (high dynamic range) photos. See “7” below for more details.
3. Change Color Space from sRGB to Adobe RGB
Adobe RGB is a bigger color space and allows you to produce more vibrant colors, on screen and in prints. As a landscape photographer, you are dealing with beautiful colors in the nature. If you have the choice to see on your computer screen more vibrant colors that you have captured with Adobe RGB, instead of the dull colors with sRGB, which one would you prefer?
Nevertheless, sRGB is a standard color space used for web display. When you upload photos online, your photos will only display in sRGB color space, no matter you embed sRGB or Adobe RGB color space in your photos.
Now when it comes to print, using Adobe RGB makes a big difference. It allows you to produce more striking and accurate colors on your prints.
One important note is that no matter what color space you choose to shoot with, you’ll find different colors on different displays, from your camera LCD screen, to your computer screen, and prints. If you want to produce precise colors from the beginning to the end, you may want to learn color calibration across different systems, which is a more advanced topic that I can elaborate in future post.